Interesting Tan line!

So, it has just occurred to me.  That, at some point in the future when I shave my beard, I am going to have a reverse goggle tan.  It is sunny on the west coast.  I have a thick beard.  I am getting tan.  The sun light doesn't penetrate my beard.  Therefore, I am going to have a fascinating tan line after I shave. 

The time spent in Bishop went too fast.  Was I having that much fun?  Must have been.  It seemed like Chad and I were only there for a week.  In fact, we had been there for three weeks.  Most notable sends in Bishop:  Flash of Solarium V4, Flash of Mister Witty V6, The Hulk V6, High Plains Drifter V7, and Soul Slinger Right V8.   

It can be said, that we left NH, a state that borders the Atlantic Ocean, and drove all the way to the Pacific Ocean.  Chad and I gave his girlfriend Jenny a ride to Ventura, California.  She is visiting a family that she used to nanny for.  They are a nice couple.  The mother Dianne just began a job working for Patagonia and Sacha is an independent graphic designer.  Their son Amato, is an over energetic smart 3 1/2 year old.  I wanted to steel their dog Emma!  She was the sweetest dog (next to Josh Cooper's dog Layla (Shes my girl)). 



Amato and Emma enjoying my sleeping corridors

Diane and Sacha were great hosts.  They kept apologizing for the lack of furniture.  They had just moved  from Boulder, CO.  It was quite alright and it was nice to sleep indoors for once!  Their house was the first place I had slept indoors for weeks.  We spent some time checking out Ventura.  It is a beach community for sure.  Tattoo parlors, board shops and blonds!  We walked the beach and had some tacos!  If you are ever in Ventura and you want cheap Patagonia clothing, go to Really Cheap Sports.  They sell Patagonia gear cheap!  It's still expensive but not as much. 

Vegas is Vegas.  The climbing is really fun. But, to have fun in Vegas you need to have money to spend.  It is still fun to walk around and see the sights and sounds.  The other night, while walking around, I met a real hooker.  She began to yell and Tim and I from across the street.  She came over to me and introduced herself.  I can't remember her name.  She put out two fingers and asked me my name.  Upon telling her, she motioned for me to shake her hand.  With her two fingers in my hand she did a curtsy and said, "pleasure to meet you Emile.  Where are we going to do this thing?"  At that point I informed her that I was looking for a place to eat and that was all.  She instantly started to tell me all of her favorite places to eat.  She was nice, but a real life hooker. 

We've sport climbed the past few days and went bouldering today.  The bouldering is really fun, but I wouldn't commit an entire trip here to it.  We plan on doing a day in the canyons, climbing the bigger stuff.  We won't be able to do anything super classic and long because of the temperatures.  It is warm at the crags, but cold up in the canyons. 

There is a strong chance that Chad and I will stop in Horseshoe Canyon Ranch. It is in Arkansa.  We have herd a lot of good things about it, and it is on our way back.  We plan on driving I-40.  If we take that route. I will have driven I-80, I-90, I-70, and I-40 across the country. 

I find this trip to be surreal.  In the fact that, I haven't worked in almost two months and I was able to pack up and leave my life behind.  Or is this my life?  It is a hard thing to determine.  I would like to be able to do this again next year.  At the same time, the thought of working in a restaurant in NH or anywhere for that matter is depressing.  However, that is the only industry that affords me the luxury of travel.  I hope, one day to be able to determine what I want to do.  I hope I am not destined to be perpetually perplexed. 

At the present moment, I don't see myself doing anything different.  All I know is this:  I have an epic beard, I am enjoying a Mammoth Brewing Company's Epic IPA, I am about to make some dinner, and I would like to travel some more this winter.  Maybe I will go to Spain or France, or maybe visit my friends in Asheville.  At this point, there is nothing stopping me from anything. I like that feeling.  I wish I could find a "real" job that would afford me this.




The view from Dianne and Sacha's place in Ventura.  You can't see it, but the ocean is down there.




 

Morning Coffee!

Chad and I are in fabulous Las Vegas, Nevada!  Call me corny, but I love this town.  I am not a gambler, nor am I usually attracted to flashy things.  However, I get a kick out of Vegas!  Our friend Tim Greene flew in from Boston and rented a gorgeous house for the week!  Once again, he is letting us stay with him for next to nothing!  It is crazy! 

Good friends are both rare and cherished.  It is a great feeling.  I value the people in my life.  Granted Tim has the means to rent a house like this, but it is extremely nice of him to let Chad and I stay.   

I will post more later.  We are excited to go climbing and everyone is giving me the hairy eyeball!   

33 Days...

I have been on this trip for 33 days.  What an experience it has been.  Is it sad that there is an end date?  Chad needs to be back for a job, and I would like to be home for friends birthdays.  Between December 20-22, Chad and I will return to the Northeast!  Yes, those dates are still far, and there is plenty that can be done and experienced in that time.  However, today was the first day that we talked about a termination date. 

I haven't found my calling in life.  It was an unreal "dream" of mine to accomplish on this trip.  Though the trip isn't over, it does not feel like I will find it.  What I have found, is a greater appreciation for life and what is around me.  My mornings are lazy, which I love.  I get out of my tent around 8, once the sun has heated it to a point that I feel the outside world is bearable.  I have coffee with Chad.  Either French Press of Espresso!  After which, breakfast is had, and depending on the day (rest day or climbing), I embark upon it.  It is a freeing and amazing feeling.  I do know this, and it is not a shocker to those that know me...  I am tired of restaurant work!  I hope to not return to the industry.  I still have some money.  More then likely I will travel around the northeast and visit friends for a while.  Depending on what develops in the months to come, i.e., job opportunities, picking up and leaving (moving west), returning home (to Stone Ridge), going to graduate school, or staying in New Hampshire; will determine what I do.  Could I spend another summer waiting tables?  Yes, as long as I have another trip to look forward to. 



The Pit!

The vagabond/dirt bag way of life is accepted here.  Maybe accepted is the wrong word, but there is a larger presence of it.  Bishop (from what I have seen) is home to many passerby.  Yes, there is world class climbing and fly fishing here, and climbing more so then fly fishing attracts people who choose to live out of there vehicles.  Coming from the east, you don't see it as much.  Of course, it is not uncommon to see a few vehicles at Rumney that people live in.  But, its different here.  There are more of them and they are more elaborate.  There is free camping on BLM land, or two dollar a night per car at the Pit.  The two coffee shops in town are receptive of the climbers.  There are brilliant gear stores in town, great laundry facilities, a place where you can shower with natural, hot spring water for only a dollar!  Where are these things on the east coast?  There are expensive camp grounds, that not always supply wonderful showers.  Some people I meet, who are living out of their vehicles own their own business.  They have found a way to make a living and still have time to travel and climb.  Others, are people my age, older and younger, who, don't know what they want to do.  Some appear to be trust fund babies and others are like me.  They work, save and travel.  It is a great culture, one that those who participate in appreciate.  There is an unspoken bond between us all.  None of us have a lot to spare but would help the other out.

The climbing keeps getting better.  I am becoming more familiar with the style and have been climbing a lot of great problems.  I haven't been able to return to High Plains Drifter.  The top of the boulder is still covered in snow.  Hopefully it will be dry and free of snow tomorrow!  Chad and I are leaving Bishop on the 8th.  We are giving his girlfriend a ride to Ventura, CA.  She flew in a few days ago.  Chad is extremely excited to see her, and now and again I feel like a third wheel.  It was to be expected. 



Drinking water in the Happies!

From Ventura we hope to meet with Tim Greene in Red Rocks!  After that, if there is time we might hit the Southeast for a bit.  Who knows!  That is the beauty of it all!



Me Flashing Mister Witty V6

 
      
  

Cold nights and Hot Springs!

Great news!  I have kicked the 24 hr stomach flu!  It was brutal.  Word is, it is going around the PIT!!!  (The Pit is the campground Chad and I are at.  It literally, is a pit.)  I have talked to some people, and it sounds like they had it worse then I did.  That sucks, because what I had was terrible. 

Climbed at the Buttermilks two days ago.  They are amazing.  I like the style of climbing there a lot more then the Happys and Sads.  Although, the Happys and Sads are fun too.  There are so many boulder problems I want to get back on.  Each area has it's own special characteristic. 

I guess it is to be expected:  There are hordes of strong people here.  Figures a world class bouldering destination would attract some of the best climbers.  It is amazing and humbling.  Boulders' walk up and onsight V8's that I am trying.  Everyone I have met is nice, so far.  The strangest people are the Europeans.  But, that is usually the case. 

Needless to say, the mercury has dipped into the single digits the past nights.  That is cold!  They are especially brutal after a day of bouldering in the sun.  Chad and I will return from climbing, start to make dinner and freeze!!!  It is a battle to stay awake and entertain oneself at the campground.  I am often in my tent by 8, and probably asleep before 9!!!  What!!!

We bumped into friends Chad made on his last trip here.  They invited us over for a Thanksgiving fire cookout!  It was great.  Chad and I splurged and bought steaks.  Cameal and Nate, (Chads friends), made more then enough sides.  We had sauteed potato's, casserole, and stuffing made with leftover jalapeno bagels.  It was a great treat. 

The remainder of Cameal's crew showed up on Friday.  We climbed with them yesterday in the Sads.  After climbing and dinner, we all went to the Hot Springs near Mammoth.  The Hot Springs were amazing.  Picture this, 8 men and 4 girls, naked in a hot spring surrounded by mountains and snow.  The Hot Spring is 30 miles north of Bishop.  Heading North on 395 you pass elevation markers: 5000, 6000, finally 7000.  Much colder at those elevations.  Bishop is at 4130.  It was fun. 

Before I forget.  Wednesday night.  To escape the cold, Chad and I went to the Bishop bowling alley.  This place has amazing burgers!  The restaurant/bar is inside the alley.  While having dinner, Chad and I saw the worst public display of affection.  Affection isn't even the correct word.  Between passing out on her partner, scratching her hypodermic needle scars and being fondled, this decrepit mentally unstable woman was OBSCENE!!!  Her man friend, equally as repulsive was loving every moment of it.  When she would pass out, he would slap her sagging breasts to wake her up.  She would proceed to kiss him, (almost vomited in my mouth thinking about this), jump up and down... not sure why.  After a while, they decided to leave.  When he man got up to leave the woman refused to.  The man says, "your embarrassing me."  What!  There entire scene was embarrassing and repulsive.  Then she replies, "I don't give a fuck!"  Oh my lord!!!  Did I mention the restaurant was full of families, including children!  

Well, I will leave you with a beard update, via picture I just took at the coffee shop.  Hope all is well.  Things are looking better, weather wise. 

  

I am so sick!!!

Yesterday was awful.  The morning started out as any other.  I awoke to the sun shinning and the mountains covered in snow.  I had my morning coffee with Chad.  However, instead of feeling inspired and amped!  I was left with an upset stomach.  I felt like vomiting but the sensation went away.  So, I continued on with my day, made breakfast and went climbing.  I should have listened to my body.  While climbing, I felt weak and all my joints hurt.  The feeling did not go away, in fact it only worsened.  Although I felt shitty, I flashed Mister Witty (V6).  After the accomplishment things got worse.  Chad and I headed into town around 230.  We had had an early start, I wasn't feeling good and Chad wanted to save some skin.  We went to the Loony Bean; one of the coffee shops in town.  Sitting in one of the leather chairs, I felt progressively worse. 
After 30 minutes of shivering with all my layers on, I decided to get a motel room.  It wasn't a prize winner, but it had a toilet, bed, heat, and a TV.  All of which were used.  Chad being the gentleman that he is, went to the store and got me some provisions.  Tylenol, chicken noodle soup and ginger ale got me through the night.  I wish I could say I slept well.  I woke up frequently covered in sweat.  I feel much better today, but not fully recovered.  Hopefully I will sleep well tonight and kick the remainder of this!

The other day while resting.  Chad and I had some interesting and truly unique experiences in Bishop.  I honestly believe these things only happen when you are on the road.  Or, are in a new area.  Maybe you are more attune to such things, or maybe climbing destinations bring you to more culturally interesting areas. 

Our rest day (a couple days ago) started out at the Loony Bean.  Chad was on his computer drinking coffee and I was doing a cross word puzzle on my phone.  I am quite addicted to them.  While trying to discern a cross word puzzle clue, an old man entered the coffee shop.  He had with him a guitar in a guitar case which he kept in a cart with wheels.  Trembling and shaking slightly, he began to talk to a gentleman in the establishment.  Todd, who Chad and I had met the day before, talked with the old man but never took his eyes off his work.  After explaining how he came into possession of the 12-string guitar, the old man asked Todd if he would like to hear him play.  In tune with his shaking and quivering, the old man played and sang beautifully.  I wish I could hear him play every afternoon.  It was a unique experience.  I never would have guessed the old man was capable of playing so well. 

The Mysterious Guitar Player

After the free concert, Chad and I wandered over to the local bar, Rusty's for happy hour.  The enticing part of happy hour was free pool and darts.  Beers were .50  cents cheaper too.  While being carded after ordering our beer, I over herd an intriguing conversation.  I herd a woman in form a man that she, "...was going to paint her nails today, but I got drunk."  The man responded, "I like getting drunk."  We took our beers and started to play pool.  No more then 20 minutes later, the man who likes getting drunk stumbled over to the pool table.  He asked if he could play the winner.  After putting his name on the chalk board, he asked what the rules for 9 ball were.  This was alread shaping up to be special.  




Local Drunk

I had won the game of 9 ball with Chad and had the pleasure of playing the old drunk.  He wasn't very good, neither am I, but I won.  He thanked us for letting him play and his parting words were; "I never mind loosing to a better player!" 

After the bar we went to the Keough Hot Springs.  They are located just outside of town and are nice.  They could be warmer, but that is not the fault of the hot springs.  There is a resort just up stream that hogs all the hot water.  The beta is to go to the springs later, after the resort has closed down and is no longer steeling all the hot water!!!!

The climbing has been fun so far.  I was just warming up to bouldering and then I got sick.  Hopefully this is only a minor set back.  I hope to climb tomorrow.  If I don't feel well I won't push it.  I don't want to be perpetually sick the entire trip.  Chad and I went and hiked around the Owens River Gorge.  We saw some very cool sport and trad lines.  I'm sure we will spend a day or two there. 




The Happys and Chad looking confused!

 I am really enjoying the trip.  There is a feeling of euphoria I get, and I feel it over some of the simplest things.  For instance, I really like making breakfast and dinner at our camp.  There is no source of running water, the only amenity at the camp ground is a pit toilet.  Yet, we still eat well.  Our meals are high in protein and calories and mixed with vegetables. It feels great to eat well while living simplistically.  It makes you realize how little you need in life to be happy.  Maybe happy isn't the right word, but it fits for now. 

The temperature is going to drop down to 10 degrees tonight.  Hope to stay warm and wake up feeling better!    
  
  

From Boulder to Bishop!

Maggie never fails to entertain!  The two days Chad and I spent in Boulder were the perfect amount of down time.  The day we arrived we spent sleeping, well I did.  Chad went to a Starbucks to use his computer and I napped.  The following day he and I went on a wild goose chase.  It hadn't occurred to me that Rock and Resole only resoled climbing shoes.  I had imaged that the store also sold climbing shoes.  Boy was I wrong.  Since Chad and I had spent so much time in the car, we decided to walk. Rock and Resole was ruffly 3.3 miles from where we were staying.  It took us through the beautiful UC campus, through parts of the town, over the tracks and to the industrial waste land!  Needless to say the walk was in vain!  No climbing shoes and it looked like we were in Juarez!   Later that evening Chad and I went out on the town with Maggie! 

Our first order of business was a stop at Maggie's friends Marijuana dispensary!  Yes, these things do exist and are somewhat legal in Boulder, CO.  The dispensary is owned and operated by Neil, a friend of Maggie's.  I would later learn that Neil is a special friend of Maggie's. 

A variety of herbs...

After visiting the Pot-shop and a failed attempt to purchase La Sportiva Solutions at Neptune Mountaineering, we were off to the bars!  First, Maggie, Chad, and I went to the Twisted Pine.  I had there Hoppy-Boy, it was a great brew.  From there we went to the Rio Grande.  A Mexican restaurant with great Margaritas!!!  Maggie was convinced that waitress was hitting on me.  After a few Margaritas and some dinner, Neil joined our party.  I must say, he is quite the funny character.  Not to let our last night in Boulder be wimpy; tour guide Neil brought us to a few more bars.  Bad music, gawking at girls, and Foosball ruled the night!

The 530am wake up call came all to early.  Goodbyes were said and by 700am Chad and I were on the road!  The drive through the Rockies on I-70 is breathtaking.  I have never experienced such beauty the way I did on that drive.  Colorado was not the only stunning part.  The Utah desert and mountains are equally as beautiful.  Somewhere along I-15 in Utah, the speedometer in the Subaru matched the speed limit.  We were driving 80 MPH and never once worried about a speeding ticket.  While being passed by an Acura SUV, doing a conservative 90 MPH, there ill fated, poorly secured roof luggage was compromised.  Seconds after informing Chad of the impending doom, a stuffed bear, of notable size launched off the roof causing traffic to swerve! (It didn't cause an accident).  Hopefully the child it belonged to has stopped crying~!  In Nevada, ten mile straight aways on two lane roads with 70 MPH speed limits dominated.  Signs read: "No services next 163 miles."  They weren't kidding, and the services once reached were no prize winners. 



The only gas station for 200 miles...

After fueling and a quick bite to eat we were back on the road.  However, our good buzz was smashed when the thermostat spiked!  We had blown the radiator, a hose, the head gasket, the thermostat or water pump... shit... we are in the middle of Nevada, the sun has gone down and we are fucked!  Those were the thoughts going through my head, as well as Chads as we tried to diagnose what was wrong with the Subaru!  The radiator cap had come loose and all the radiator fluid had spewed out!  Luckily, we had a gallon of water in the car.  We were able to make it back to Baker. Fortunately the only store open had radiator fluid.  We topped it off, bled the system and were back at it! 

The day started off rainy, and now the sun is out!  Fuck this library I'm going bouldering... what else is there to do in Bishop?  Not like it is one of, if not, the best bouldering destinations in the US!  I will leave you with a picture of the sunset I took in Baker, Nevada.  It was, not to sound redundant, amazing, beautiful, stunning, breathtaking... I think you get the idea!



Sunset Baker, Nevada

       
   

1263 miles and a snow storm!

Chad and I are enjoying a beautiful day in Boulder, Colorado.  I must say, the city is very impressive and the University of Colorado at Boulder campus is breathtaking.  It is nothing like Plymouth.  The buildings are immaculate, the campus is clean and all the students ride bicycles.  Did I mention that campus has an amazing view of the Flatirons?  Well... it does. 

On recommendation from Chads girlfriend.  He and I went to Mountain Sun Brewery and Pub!  I have never waited so long for a table on  a Wednesday night.  However, it was well worth it.  While drinking heavenly IPA's and waiting for our table.  We talked with gregarious wait staff and friendly patrons.  Forty-five minutes later and a few beers, Chad and I were seated at a community table.  The burgers were great!

The drive from Lexington to Boulder is approximately 1263 miles.  As we pushed through Indiana, Illinois, Missouri and Kansas, we decided we would make the drive in one shot.  With 20 miles left in Kansas Chad pulled over for fuel and a driver change.  I bought a coffee and we cruised into Colorado.  No more then 30 minutes into the drive, Chad was asleep and it began to snow.  Now, I don't know if snow is any different in Colorado, but it was coming down with force!  With the speedometer reading 55 MPH, 20 MPH short of the posted speed limit, conditions worsened.  Once the road disappeared and visibility dropped from 50 feet to 20, I woke Chad up and we pulled off at the first exit we came across.  Flagler, Colorado.  Not wanting to stray too far from the highway we pulled into the first lot we found.  In front of us was a Diner and behind a Liquor store.  With nowhere else to stay, Hotel Subaru was looking mighty fine.  With the back seats down and the car packed with gear, we were forced to sleep sitting up. 

Needless to say, good sleep was not in the cards.  Between gale force winds, which rocked the Subaru, and the never ending battle to squirm into a comfortable position, an hour of sleep was accomplished.  At 630am we had had enough and roused ourselves from the car.  The doors had froze shut and the outside world was coated in ice. 

  
At the gas station across the street, we learned that the highway was unsafe for travel.  There were numerous accidents.  While telling us that it only got worse, I asked the gas station attendant why they hadn't closed the highway?  She replied, "they won't close it until there is a fatality."  After an hour of milling around the gas station, we decided to hit the road.  The highway was slick and we saw multiple accidents.  Just passed Limon, CO. the sun came out and the road cleared.  It was smooth sailing to Boulder!  

So long Kentucky and the Gorge!!!

Well... what can be said.  Our time is done at the RED! It was amazing.  Unfortunately, but fortunately, the road trip must go on!  We climbed today and are spending the night at a (new) friends apartment in Lexington.  We met Nichole our first weekend at Miguel's.  She was drinking Busch light from a camouflaged beer can.  Chad and I sat down to talk with her and her friend.  In her defense, Busch light is only available in a camouflaged can, at least in this region of the continental 48!  Realizing that we had no where to stay tonight, in loo of unpacking (the car we just packed this morning), and pitching our tents, just to break them down again in the morning, we kindly asked Nichole for a place to stay.  She graciously is hosting us!     

Yesterday was a gloomy day.  The forecast didn't look good and motivation to climb was low.  Around 1230, I mentioned I wouldn't mind going out to the Sanctuary to see if anything was climbable. Of course it started to rain the second we began to hike down.  Not to be deterred, Chad and I continued on our path!  I'm glade we did.  Upon arriving at the crag, the rain stopped and it gradually cleared.  I took a refresher/warm up burn on Jesus Wept (5.12d).  It went exceedingly well for a warm up.  I had some trouble sticking a big move down low, but once I was past it I climbed it to the chains.  My second burn I fell at the top.  There is a thin, techy, tensiony, redpoint crux at the top of the climb.  After finishing the route.  I lowered to this section and made sure I remembered the foot sequence.  On my third go, I executed!  It went so smoothly, I love it when sends go that way!  It was a great way for me to end the trip.  Speaking of ending the trip well, Tim Greene sent Dogleg (5.12a), today.  It is an extremely height dependent, amazing rock climb.  Tim was so psyched, as were Chad and I for him.

Poor, poor Tim.  Chad and I bought him pizza in our fiscally conservative way of saying thank you, for letting us stay in his cabin.  He is still extremely psyched to climb here and wanted Chad and I to stay a few more days.  Not that Chad and I are sticking to a strict schedule, but we had decided at the beginning of our trip, that we would leave on this date!  Despite his best efforts, he couldn't change our minds.  Hopefully he will find someone to climb with tomorrow, although the forecast isn't looking good.

Tomorrow Chad and I head to Boulder, Colorado.  It is about a 20 hour drive from Lexington.  We might do it in one push or two.  Either way, we hope to arrive on the 17th.  We are going to be visiting with my amazing Aunt Maggie!  She too, is on a road trip and has found herself a house sitting gig in Boulder.  Therefore, Chad and I are going to crash over her way for a few days.  I am excited to see her.  Not that I am bias, but she is a really cool.  I am looking forward to seeing her, and the sights and sounds of Boulder!  


    

We were played!!!

I am writing to you live from the Beattyville public library!  I must say, I am impressed with the facility.  It is clean, well maintained, and has multiple public computers.  They are available for anyone, not just card carrying members.  Unfortunately, the girl sitting next to me, reeks of cigarette smoke and looks to be about 16.  It is sad.  Chad and I had a cultural experience today.  We did our laundry (in Beattyville) today.  The laundry mat is located below the Family Dollar.  Needless to say, the facility was sub-par.  There was no attendant, more then half the machines were graffiti-ed (I don't know the past tense of graffiti).  Not vandalized, rather the graffiti was informative.  It informed "you" of which machines worked and on what date the machine last worked! 

While waiting for our laundry, Chad and I got to experience the local culture! There was a pickup truck that had been in an accident.  The entire bed was smashed up, almost into the cab.  The amazing part was, the owner was still driving it.  The truck still drove straight, although the sub frame looked demolished!  He seemed content and happy to continue driving the automobile!

A few minutes later, we saw, what could be, one of the most amazing things  I have seen!  An elderly gentleman, probably around 80, cruised through the parking lot on a vesper scooter!  He had a flashy, open faced helmet on.  On the side of the helmet it read, "hot rod," and he was chewing.  It was the type of chewing I remember my grandfather and mother doing when they had their teeth out!  Chad and I were both breathless!  I wanted to shake his hand, but as he came, he was gone and the memory remains!  (Not quoting Metallica there!)  There is now a little boy in the library, probably about six.  He is dressed in camouflage overalls, with no shirt on!!! Holy shit!  It is truly amazing that this is acceptable!

A few days ago, while we were resting in Lexington, we had an encounter with a nifty girl.  She approached Chad, Tim, and myself.  We had finished loading the Subaru with groceries and she approached us.  She had an amazing sob story.  She had just run out of gas, needed to get home, but had no money.  She was dressed well, appeared to have taken a shower, was dolled up, and she knew she was good looking.  After informing us of her situation, out of gas, no money to get home, she asked us if we could spare a few dollars.  We all had the deer in head lights look.  Do we help her? Is she swindling us... what if shes not?  Will we look like assholes if we don't help her?  Then she nailed us, hook line and sinker... "it is really embarrassing for me to ask and if I didn't have to I wouldn't.  I have no where else to turn.  I haven't talked to my family in some time now, and if I could, they wouldn't help me..."  Her southern accent was strong.  Blinded by this last comment, we all reached deep and gave her a few dollars, eight to be exact.  Later, over some beer and hot wings, it occurred to us that we were manipulated and exploited!  She had done this before, we weren't her first victims that evening...  She got her meth, fix!

Chad sent his second 12a and first in the Red River Gorge two days ago.  The three of us sent Glide (5.12a). A new route in the Boneyard.  It was awesome to see Chad send it.  He had a great sequence through crux and held on till the end!  Later that day, I sent Iniquity (5.12b).  It was my second go.  I had tried it earlier in the trip.  Afterwards I tried Cellblock 6, but didn't send.  That thing is hard!!!  I returned to an old project yesterday.  I got on Jesus Wept (5.12d).  The Sanctuary is an amazing crag and Jesus Wept is a must do!!!  I took a refresher burn, then one hung the climb twice.  I was so close to sending.  I think I will go back before the trip is over and send!!!  Tim took a go at it and liked it.

Sorry for the lack of pictures.  We didn't take many the past couple days, and I'm at the library.  There is a pronounced sign in front of me.  It makes it clear, it is not allowed to insert any mass storage drives into the computer... yes, that's what she said!

Cold nights, Whiskey and girls...

Needless to say, it was cold the past few nights in Kentucky!  We have had rain, some snow, freezing cold temperatures, and wonderful, beautiful weather!  Today is our second rest day, and we have found our way to Lexington.  Lexington is an interesting city.  It is mostly made up of the University of Kentucky (@ Lexington), strip malls, and a wonderful, historic village, downtown. 

The week, since arriving, has been filled with climbing, interesting nights at Miguel's, intriguing stories, and a fatal crush!  Tim, Chad and I, met up with a friend of mine.  Tom (Armstrong) and I met Thierry on one of our first adventures to the red.  Thierry is the same energetic and psyched person that I remember him to be. He has been a wonderful guide, showing us new routes that we might have overlooked.  I got on an amazing 5.13a called Calm like a Balm, per his recommendation.  The route is beautiful, and all of 13a.  I was able to figure out all the moves with a few hangs, but was unable to red point on my second try... I figured that was going to happen. 



Thierry!

    
So far, I have failed to onsight a new 5.12.  This has been truly frustrating for me.  I fell on the onsight attempt of Check your grip (5.12a), with my face in the chains.  I let out my usual "fuck!" And later, "I'm such a pussy..."  Why this bothered me so much, at the time? I don't know.  I was able to do the route second go, in fact, I hiked it.  Looking back, there is no reason to be so upset, these routes are pumpy and onsight climbing is hard!  Then, I fell after the crux on Abiyoyo (5.12b).  Once again I was disappointed!  However, I sent it second go!  I am going to try and not be so upset!  Why?  Because it is ok.  "You" don't have to onsight every route.  It isn't about grades, onsighting or flashing, it's about having fun, and these routes are so much fun.  I don't want to ruin them with negative energy!

Me on the upper section of Abiyoyo 5.12b

 I got on Cell Block 6 (5.12c) at the MidNight Surf.  It is an amazing, amazing climb and I hope to red point tomorrow.  Iniquity (5.12b), to its right is, as spectacular.  I hope to do both routes.  I made all the moves on both of them. 

CellBlock 6

Tim Greene has taken well to the climbing at the RED!  He has been crushing.  It is great to see.  He has ticked, Stay the Hand 12a, Ro Shampo 12a, Check your Grip 12a, and Superbest Friends 12b.  It is great to see him having so much fun!  I wish Chad was liking the red more.  Well, I know he is enjoying his time here.  However, he is having a difficult time adjusting to the climbing style.  He seems to be a little frustrated with it.  Speaking of Tim Greene!  He had booked himself a cabin for the last week of the trip.  He surprised Chad and I by inviting us to stay with him.  It is an extremely generous and nice offer from him.  Of course, we graciously accepted!

Miguel's is an experience.  One girl told Chad she spends a lot of time with her heals above her head!  Haha, Chad, Sam and I were talking about climbing and heal hooking above ones head. This girl who claims to be from Alaska, casually delivered that perfect response!  Of course we took it out of context!  Jim Beam and Ale-8-1's go great together, and give you the courage to talk to the girl your crushing over!!!  Oh yes, I wasn't going to neglect you this information.  So, being the hopeless romantic I am, I have been swept by a girl named Amber.  She is from Toronto, beautiful, easy to talk to and a great climber.  As it goes, two days before we moved into Tims cabin (last night was our first night there), I began talking to her.  And, on our last day at Miguels, she went out of her way to talk with me and was extremely flirtatious!  I'm sure she knows what affect she has on every male and probably, some female climbers!!!  We are going to climb together tomorrow!!!! 

There is so much to write about and only so much time.  I will try to update the blog more frequently.  It is hard, since there is no Internet at the cabin. 

New Ticks:
Check your grip 12a
Jersey Connection 12b (finally!)
Ro Shampo 12a
Abiyoyo 12b

Sounds of a Fiddle

Currently, I am sitting in the middle of Miguels parking lot.  Chad is practicing the fiddle and we are beginning to cook dinner.  The rice is simmering, onions, sausage and chic peas are sauteing!  Needless to say we made it!

We left Plymouth at 930am on Monday.  Arrived at Miguels 545am this morning.  We got 3 hours of sleep, met up with our friend Tim (yes, Greenberg!), and climbed all day.  I punted on my onsight attempt of "Way Up Yonder!" (5.12a)  It is a seriously pumpy endouro route!  It is so much fun!  I re-redpointed/amnesia flashed  "Stay the Hand." (5.12a) Chad and Tim were working it. 

The road was full of good times!  We found out the way, that toll booth workers do not appreciate pennies!  I decided to pay our $2.45 toll with a combination of dimes, nickles, and 35 cents worth of pennies!  Upon handing the awkward mass to the attendant, she slyly replied, "you don't tip waitresses with pennies!"  She was not thrilled and Chad and I had a chuckle as we pulled away.  And yes, she made us wait while she counted it all!

Mid-way through Pennsylvania we received a text from Tim.  He informed us that he was catching some zzzz's at the WalMart in Morgantown, West Virginia!  Chad and I instantly knew were going there to rouse him in the night! We arrived at the WalMart around midnight.  Aptly, we awoke Tim, insistently making fun of him!

After we had our fun with Tim, we went grocery shopping at the WalMart.  After making our selections, we were forced to go to the only cashier that was open.  The cash register that also sold cigarettes!  At the time we arrived, there were two, classy (I say that jokingly), looking gentlemen in front of us.  While waiting for the cashier to finish counting her drawer.  The most outlandish looking of the two, was a man (probably 25).  His face was black, I can only assume from working in a coal mine or on automobiles.  His shirt had an arrow on his chest.  The arrow pointed to his face, underneath the arrow pointing up, it proclaimed, "The Man!"  Aptly placed below that, was another arrowing pointing to his johnson.  This one read; "The LEGEND!"  Refraining from laughing we emptied our cart onto the conveyor belt.  Looking up after finishing, the line had grown ten deep behind us.  Noticing this, the manager opened up the next lane.  She said, "I can take anyone over here that isn't buying cigarettes..."  NO ONE MOVED!!!  

First day down.  I feel calm and relaxed.  It is a great feeling, knowing that I am going to wake up and climb tomorrow.  The red is an amazing place! I enjoy the climbing here immensely!  The feeling within me now is hard to explain.  All I know is that it is euphoric.  There is something tranquil about writing this blog by headlamp, tired after a day of climbing at the RED, and knowing I am going to do it all over again tomorrow!

The time has come!

Chad and I are leaving in the morning! It is so exciting!  Everyone is so psyched for he and I.  The trip is going to be awesome.  Two months is a long time, there will be many stories to tell and reports to post! 

The Red River Gorge is a 16 hour drive from Holderness.  We are leaving in the morning, stopping off quickly in Stone Ridge.  I need to grab some long underwear and say hello to the moms.  Then we are dropping the hammer all the way to the red!  First on my radar is a 12a called Way Up Yonder!  I really think I can onsight it.  I've looked at it several times.  Its long and steep!  (If you cant tell by the name).  I love the 5.12's at the red.  That grade is so amazing to climb there! 

Kentucky here we come!!!!


 

Six Months

Since graduating college two years ago,  I have fostered a six month shelf life.  That is, after six months of the same thing, regardless of what it is, I become bored of it, aggravated with it and have a burning desire to move on.  With that said, I have been living in my present apartment for seven months, and  working for the same amount of time.  I am tired of it!  No matter how much energy I have when I go to work, the second I arrive, I am tired and not in the mood to be there, which negatively translates to my ability to deal with people. This is a major problem when working in the service world!  As remorseful as it is to say, I am loosing my psych on Rumney.  I haven't had the same, riveting desire to climb there, as I did when I returned from my previous adventure.

Call me crazy, but I would rather live a modest life, work as little as possible, save a fortuitous amount of money then travel and climb.  I am often plagued by my inability to make decisive decisions.  Especially those regarding my life, i.e., where and what to go to graduate school for...  this, in combination with the above stated has left me in a quasi depressed state.  The only thing I know for sure, is that I am leaving in a week and will be gone for two months on an adventure that will define me as a person (or so I hope).  Another downfall I see in myself, is the high expectations I put on things.  I am often left with disappointing results.  Will this trip help me figure out who I am... who knows... I don't.  However, I hope that it will.

I am envious of my friends in graduate school, I am jealous of the ones who have started careers.  But,  when I talk to them, they don't seem happier then me and they tell me that they wish they could do what I am doing.  Is it human nature to never be content with your situation?  Are we constantly thirsting for more?  The greener pasture?  There are moments in life that shape and mold "you" for ever.  These defining moments are never clear, but paramount later in life.  I believe there is no price on happiness and no fortune can bring it to me eternally.  I would rather have five friends who know I love and care for them, then be a celebrity.

I climbed in the rain today with a few friends.  We all went out knowing the day was a bust, but we still went.  None of us went because the climbing was going to be exceptional, we (at least I went) for the comradeship, the stupid and inane banter, the smiles and the laughs...  



 

The inaugural blog...

I never thought I would find myself sitting at my computer blogging.  I am embarking on a two month road with my friend Chad.  He and I are leaving on November 1st.  We are traveling the United States, climbing in various locations.  When telling friends about this trip, I was often met with the question; "will you be keeping a journal?"  Being a member of the 21st century, a blog seemed the logical answer.  This blog, will be an account of travel, climbing accomplishments, but more importantly, a personal, introspective, reflection of my life and where it is going.

I am not writing this blog for entertainment, although I am sure it will have its moments.  I won't be upset if it is never read.  To the people who read it and know me, they will understand it and appreciate it.  If you find yourself reading this and unsure why you are... don't feel obligated to continue! If you are intrigued by my personal reflection of life on the road, climbing accomplishments, and the eternal search for the unknown, then enjoy.