Cold nights, Whiskey and girls...

Needless to say, it was cold the past few nights in Kentucky!  We have had rain, some snow, freezing cold temperatures, and wonderful, beautiful weather!  Today is our second rest day, and we have found our way to Lexington.  Lexington is an interesting city.  It is mostly made up of the University of Kentucky (@ Lexington), strip malls, and a wonderful, historic village, downtown. 

The week, since arriving, has been filled with climbing, interesting nights at Miguel's, intriguing stories, and a fatal crush!  Tim, Chad and I, met up with a friend of mine.  Tom (Armstrong) and I met Thierry on one of our first adventures to the red.  Thierry is the same energetic and psyched person that I remember him to be. He has been a wonderful guide, showing us new routes that we might have overlooked.  I got on an amazing 5.13a called Calm like a Balm, per his recommendation.  The route is beautiful, and all of 13a.  I was able to figure out all the moves with a few hangs, but was unable to red point on my second try... I figured that was going to happen. 



Thierry!

    
So far, I have failed to onsight a new 5.12.  This has been truly frustrating for me.  I fell on the onsight attempt of Check your grip (5.12a), with my face in the chains.  I let out my usual "fuck!" And later, "I'm such a pussy..."  Why this bothered me so much, at the time? I don't know.  I was able to do the route second go, in fact, I hiked it.  Looking back, there is no reason to be so upset, these routes are pumpy and onsight climbing is hard!  Then, I fell after the crux on Abiyoyo (5.12b).  Once again I was disappointed!  However, I sent it second go!  I am going to try and not be so upset!  Why?  Because it is ok.  "You" don't have to onsight every route.  It isn't about grades, onsighting or flashing, it's about having fun, and these routes are so much fun.  I don't want to ruin them with negative energy!

Me on the upper section of Abiyoyo 5.12b

 I got on Cell Block 6 (5.12c) at the MidNight Surf.  It is an amazing, amazing climb and I hope to red point tomorrow.  Iniquity (5.12b), to its right is, as spectacular.  I hope to do both routes.  I made all the moves on both of them. 

CellBlock 6

Tim Greene has taken well to the climbing at the RED!  He has been crushing.  It is great to see.  He has ticked, Stay the Hand 12a, Ro Shampo 12a, Check your Grip 12a, and Superbest Friends 12b.  It is great to see him having so much fun!  I wish Chad was liking the red more.  Well, I know he is enjoying his time here.  However, he is having a difficult time adjusting to the climbing style.  He seems to be a little frustrated with it.  Speaking of Tim Greene!  He had booked himself a cabin for the last week of the trip.  He surprised Chad and I by inviting us to stay with him.  It is an extremely generous and nice offer from him.  Of course, we graciously accepted!

Miguel's is an experience.  One girl told Chad she spends a lot of time with her heals above her head!  Haha, Chad, Sam and I were talking about climbing and heal hooking above ones head. This girl who claims to be from Alaska, casually delivered that perfect response!  Of course we took it out of context!  Jim Beam and Ale-8-1's go great together, and give you the courage to talk to the girl your crushing over!!!  Oh yes, I wasn't going to neglect you this information.  So, being the hopeless romantic I am, I have been swept by a girl named Amber.  She is from Toronto, beautiful, easy to talk to and a great climber.  As it goes, two days before we moved into Tims cabin (last night was our first night there), I began talking to her.  And, on our last day at Miguels, she went out of her way to talk with me and was extremely flirtatious!  I'm sure she knows what affect she has on every male and probably, some female climbers!!!  We are going to climb together tomorrow!!!! 

There is so much to write about and only so much time.  I will try to update the blog more frequently.  It is hard, since there is no Internet at the cabin. 

New Ticks:
Check your grip 12a
Jersey Connection 12b (finally!)
Ro Shampo 12a
Abiyoyo 12b