Long overdue!

I apologize to anyone who actually reads my blog or looks forward to my posting.  I have been very lazy this trip.  Maybe lazy isn't the right word; not motivated to write a blog, lacking the time, and/or not having a computer and access to the Internet.  The trip has been great, none of those reasons are because the trip hasn't been fun!

For me, the time spent in the Red River Gorge was the best!  Right now, I am sitting in the Black Sheep (coffee shop) in Bishop with a sprained ankle.  I will get to that in a minute. 

The Red was eventful and full of great times.  Aside from the amazing climbing, Chad, Alexa (a mutual friend of Chad and I who came down the he RED with us then left after Thanksgiving), and myself were gifted a house to stay in.  Our friend Thierry (French, pronounced Thi-er-ri), let us stay in a house he rents a room in.  Well, we were more like semi-professional security!  The house that Thierry rents a room in was broken into the week prior to our arrival.  One day, while climbing with Thierry, he told us that he had spoke with the woman who rents the house and she was excited to have people to stay there!  It felt more like we were squatting then protecting!  However, it was great to have a house with beds, a kitchen, laundry facilities, and a warm shower!  Oh, did I mention we had a house cat!  It smelled a little, but all in all it was super cute. 

My good friends Brad and Tim visited for bit.  It was nice having everyone in the house, lots of different personalities all to-get-her under one roof crushing it on the rocks!

I didn't send a 13a, I came so close!  I one hung Table of Colors on my second try!  I didn't have enough juice to send it on my third go.  I would have been able to send, but the weather had turned and the forecast didn't look good.  Chad and I decided to leave for better weather.  I sent Triple Sec 12d, on my second try and red pointed Cell Block Six 12c.  Those are my favorite sends.  I did a hand full of other 12a and b's.  I got on a lot of harder routes.  Black Gold, 13c is amazing.  Hopefully one day I will be strong enough to send that on a trip to the RED!!!

From the Red, Chad and I went to Horse Pens 40.  It is in Alabama and is everything that is backwards about Alabama.  It is owned and operated by a family.  The children are home schooled and the father carries a six shooter on his hip.  HP 40 hosts Bluegrass Festivals and religious revivals, as well as a climbing competition, and obviously is home to phenomenal bouldering.  The climbing is unique, challenging, and fun!  Everything there is hard!  Be prepared to smear your feet and slap nonexistent slopers!     

The camping is expensive, but that is to be expected at a private campground.  When we checked in, Chad and I were greeted by the youngest son.  Probably 16 or 17.  He found it appropriate to make an off color reference to 'blacks.'  I don't remember the particulars of the conversation now.  It had something to do with passing laws to keep Canadians out just like Mexicans, and then he transitioned to blacks.  I was happy my last name isn't overtly Jewish. 

On our first rest day in HP we went to Birmingham.  I can't lie, Birmingham is a fun place and Chad and I made some great friends.  We stumbled upon Lucy's Coffee and Tea Cafe.  There, while drinking fine coffee and eating delicious pannini's, we began to talk to Kate and Lucy (little Lucy, not the owner).  They gave us great recommendations to enjoy Birmingham on a budget, then they invited us to meet them out for a beer.  They invited us to Good People Brewing.  Great, beer, fun atmosphere and good local live entertainment. Before leaving to check out the Birmingham Museum of Art, the owner Lucy invited us to her Christmas Party, which was going on that Saturday.  After checking out the museum Chad and I went to Good People Brewery, met up with Kate, Little Lucy, Emily (who we were introduced to at the Brewery), and their friend Burgin.  While making friends over beer Chad and I were informed what an honor it was to be invited to Lucys party.  We had to oblige. 

I can't tell a lie, the party was the most fun I have had in a long time at a social gathering.  Chad and I were known as the climbers and everyone was dieing to talk to us, ask us questions and see what we were all about.  We met a lot of interesting people, drank a lot of good beer, drank some Bourbon, Tequila, and ate extravagant treats that people brought.  There are to many memorable moments to comment on, but a few stand out.  First, I brought Chad a beer, however we had nothing to open it with.  I asked a guy to my left, (later we learn his name to be AJ, he was quite fond of Emily), if he had a bottle opener.  He said he didn't but he had keys, and handed Chad his car keys.  With in inquisitive expression on his face, Chad said, "are you sure?"  AJ responded with, "use leverage."  Chad did and nearly broke his key in half!  It was quite awkward but hilarious!  The key was bent back to what looked usable.  Chad and I felt weird until we learnt later that the girls (Kate, Emily, and Lucy), weren't fans of him.  They thought he was a creeper!   Next highlight, was when an older woman grabbed my ass.  The back story:  A girl named Meghan was standing behind me and talking to Chad.  Turns out she was extremely attracted to me and wanted to grab my ass.  Her friend and Chad were trying to convince her to do so, I was unaware of this, until the older woman grabbed my butt.  It would be grabbed several more times, by that woman, a gay man, and another woman.  I don't think Meghan ever grabbed it.  Then, later in the evening, another older woman, who I hadn't met came up to me, grabbed my arm and said, "I can't believe your not fucking my friend Meghans brains out!"  I was caught off guard and had no reply!  I wish I had the time and you the patience to read about everything that happened at the party.  It was a great time.

Sadly, once we were sober enough to drive, Chad and I left our new friends to drive to Bishop.  He and I plan to stay in touch with Kate, Emily and little Lucy (and big Lucy).  If you are ever in Birmingham go to Lucy's Coffee and Tea Cafe, its off of University BLV! 

Well, that is all for now, there is plenty more to write about... (I haven't forgot about the ankle!) look for it in a few days!  Thanks and sorry for the delay.

How you know your on a climbing road trip...

1)  You haven't showered in days
2) Your car is packed to the roof with crash pads, clothing, gear, and it has an odd smell to it
3) There is no skin on your finger tips
4) You consider your tent home, your therma rest a bed and your sleeping bag blankets
5) You meet people from around the world who you have mutual acquaintances with
6) Figuring out where you want to climb is the hardest part of your day
7) Rice and beans in a delicacy
8) You are excited for two dollar movies in Lexington, KY
9) You go to bed early and wake with the sun (especially after a few beers)
10) Your hair and beard grow long and you start to smell!

The drive down went very well.  The 17 hours seemed to fly by.  Chad and I left Plymouth, NH at 930pm, and drove down to Massachusetts.  We picked up Alexa, a friend of Chad's who is joining us in the RED RIVER GORGE!  We left Alexa's around 1130pm and drove through the night.  Mutilated deer carcases lined the highway in Pennsylvania and West Virginia, luckily no deer darted out in front of us.  The Maryland sun rise was long and sweet.  The sun draped astonishing streaks of red, orange and yellow on the horizon as the sun gave light to the day.  We arrived at Miguel's around 300 in the afternoon. 

The soup-can aka, the Subaru made the drive well. A few days prior to leaving, my car began to leak coolant.  It got worse so I decided to take it to a shop.  Deep down I knew it was a bad head gasket, but I was hoping that it would be something else.  No more then an hour after dropping the Outback off at Currier and Sons Garage, I got the phone call I was dreading.  The head gasket was bad and had a pencil sized hole in it.  I commissioned the work.  3 days and 987.00 dollars later She was fixed!  They did a great job.  New head gasket, they re-sealed my valve covers, new spark plugs, air filer, and a few other things I am forgetting; the Subaru was ready for launch.  I literally picked the car up at 700 pm Monday, two and a half hours later Chad and I were on the road. An instantaneous 1000 mile test!  With fingers crossed; no more mechanical problems!  However, the other night one of the trunk actuators broke!  It snapped off where it connects to the car frame!  We found the perfect stick to take its place, but the gate is still heavy to lift and it comes down fast!  We hope to find a replacement actuator today, a rest day.

TRAGEDY TODAY!!!! We are out of coffee!  Chad and I are forced to pay for coffee at Miguel's!  It isn't the end of the world but it isn't the best coffee!

We have climbed for three days.  We are planning on a 3 and 1 schedule.  3 days of climbing, 1 of rest.  It may change depending on weather and how we feel.

So far I haven't sent anything.  I am stepping up my game this year.  We are going to be here for a while and I really want to send some 5.13's.  It may prove to be futile, the past few days I haven't felt that strong on the steep climbs.  It is to be expected since I don't climb or train for this style.  I still love it, although it is frustrating to get shut down on 13a.  I feel as though I should be able to do a 13a in half a dozen tries!  Time and rest will tell!  If I keep getting shut down, then it's back to 5.12.  Chad and Alexa are climbing very well.  I am excited for them!

Sorry I have no pictures to share, hopefully that will change.  As freeing as it is to be on the road I am still burdened with the future.  I'm not sure what I want to do after the road trip.  I am excited as always for climbing but still frustrated with the future.  Sometimes I wonder about the other people at Miguels.  Are they as lost as me?  Do they not care?  Or is this it for them? 



  

Anxiety and excitement!

I am shaking with emotions (and coffee).  A lot has gone in the past weeks, and the summer as well.  As of November 1st I have been homeless.  Not actually.  I moved out of my apartment, and now I am spending a few nights at my friend and climbing legend Tom Armstrongs' home.  I am also borrowing his truck.  My car began leaking copious amounts of coolant two days ago.  Low and behold, 5 days before leaving on the road trip my car needs a head gasket.  Of course.  Murphy's law?  A catch-22?  Fixing the head gasket is going to cost me 1/4 of my savings!  I don't have much of a choice in the matter.  Fortunately, I still have enough money for the trip.  This hit has the potential to cut the trip short or make it more stressful towards the end.... not having enough money is annoying!  On a responsible and adult note, I purchased heath insurance last week.  As my friend Jason Conway put it; "Health insurance is the one thing you pay into and don't want to use!"  How true is that?

I am excited for the trip, however, at the same time I feel anxious.  My car needing the head gasket hasn't helped.  Aside from that, I am still nervous.  I think I am more nervous for what I am going to do after the trip.  I am going to be broke and homeless.  I am thinking about returning to Stone Ridge, and spending some time with my mom.  Hopefully I will be able to find work, and save enough money to go to Turkey!

As much as I love New Hampshire I think my time here is coming to an end.  This summer was tumultuous.  I think I am done working in restaurants (or at least around here).  The job lacks inspiration, I'm not stimulated by it anymore.  90% of my customers annoy me, I don't find them interesting and they are cheap.  I can't, it hurts my soul.  Last night, unprompted or provoked a couple at the bar spent 5 minutes forcing their conservative, ignorant and completely insane political opinions down my throat!  It took all my restraint to keep from telling them off.  They think Obama is a socialist.  They said he hasn't done anything he promised and he has put us further in debt.  Yeah, like he was handed his presidency on a silver platter.  Then they went on to tell me that Obama should have let GM fail.  Stupidly I asked, "what about all the GM employees that would be out of a job?"  They told me that they would have to fend for themselves... then they said they don't believe in unemployment, so I asked what people should do, and they said if people are starving they should turn to their churches.  At that point I walked away.  I don't disagree fully, yes, people take advantage of unemployment and welfare.  But some people need it!  Anyway, those people are insane.  Wealthy land owners from Connecticut up for the weekend to shut down their Lake house on Winnipeesaukee.

I've been saying it for a while and it is finally time.  After the road trip and hopefully a trip to Turkey I am going to move out west or go to graduate school.  Most likely I will get a masters in Mathematics Education.  I can't fathom the idea of working all year round.  At least not yet.  I still need to climb 5.14a!

I go back and forth, this morning I was feeling super excited about the road trip, then I felt anxious.  I think things will be better once I am on the road.  The road is calming.  It is relaxing.  Hopefully my car troubles are done.  I've put 2000 into that thing this summer.  I bought it last year for 4100.  Cars are not cheap.

I haven't climbed much in the past week.  The weather has been shitty and I am resting for the trip.  I hope to send a few 13's in the red and hopefully put down some hard boulder problems.  I'd love to do a V10, but I'd settle for some 8's and 9's.  I'm excited for the RED!  Especially for Chad.  He is climbing so well this year.  It is going to be a good time!

                 

Inspiration...

Inspiration is interesting.  Where does it come from? and where does it go?  It is enigmatic, some people are self inspired while others need 'inspiration.'  I find myself 50% inspired by others and 50% self driven.

A few weeks ago, my friend John (who I hadn't seen in a year) came into Canoe.  Sidebar:  Canoe is a restaurant that I am currently working in.  It is in Centre Harbor, NH.  It's nice, the food is great and I don't mind working there.  While serving John  and his friend Sweet and Sour Calamari, (which is phenomenal) he asked about my travels and said he enjoyed reading my blog.  That stood out to me.  It felt good to hear someone who I hadn't seen in a long time say that.  BAM, inspiration.  However, it has taken me close to a month to actually sit down and write.  The other 50% percent, self motivation.  Truth be told, I have been busy and my computer only works half the time I turn it on.  With that said, I am excited to blog again and set out on another trip!

Yes, that is correct.  Chad and I are hitting the road again.  It is going to be great.  Seasoned road veterans setting out on another epic trip.  (There are plans for another European adventure, but I can't tell you everything at once!)  It is time.  I need to get out.  I moving out of my apartment, and may be saying goodbye to NH for a long time.  It is hard to fathom that completely, but I haven't been happy since returning from Spain.  A large part of it stems from where I am living.  It has been a great, cheap apartment but I am done with it.

I know I have been saying this for a while, but the dream (my life since graduating college) needs a face lift, a  paradigm shift.  The ideal of the dream must continue but I need to promote myself.  Grad School, a move (out west) or a real job.  I think I am going gray from waiting tables! These things are going to happen.

As for climbing, what can be said I love it!  This summer hasn't been the best.  Lot of rain and humidity.  I sent Dodge the Lemons, a 5.13c/d on the Waimea wall of Rumney.  It is a beast of a motherfucker.  I got some recognition in a local climbing magazine for the ascent.  It was cool.  Aside from that, I have climbed Roaring Silence, 5.13b.  I am close on 3 other projects.  Two of the three are perpetually wet with all the rain, and the third, Beat Junky, I hope to send this week!

Opening moves of Dodge the Lemons

Intermediate hold before the toss to the brick.

   All in all it has been a great summer.  I got to witness and be apart of the marriage of two friends.  Anthony Cormier to Casey Martin.  They are both amazing people and I was honored to be apart of it.  I've visited friends all around the Northeast, I have money in the bank to travel with.  Life is good, the coffee I am drinking tastes great.

The adventure continues!

Friends...

I have never been the type of person who has a lot of friends.  Because of this, the friends I do have tend to be special and dear to me.  I have a core group of friends that I grew up with, friends in New Hampshire, and a few close friends in Asheville, NC.  More often then not I will go weeks, months, or even years without seeing some of them.  What I love the most about my friendships with them all, is that we pick up like we never left off.  And for that I am elated to have the friends I do. 

Chad and I found ourselves in Asheville, NC on the final leg of our trip.  It was great because Josh and Cameron were still around and crushing as usual.  Chad and I stayed with Josh and we got in a couple good days at Rumbling Bald.  While there, I spent some time with my Aunt Maggie and my cousin Lola.  Both of whom I have a great relationship with.  No matter how short a time I am in Asheville, I love it.  I wish I had the ability to just move there!  The funny thing is... what's stopping me? Nothing, expect myself.  Which is an interesting thing to say.

Since returning from the road trip, I have and still am (due to snow) spending time home in Stone Ridge.  It is interesting how you can grow up in an area, spend a majority of your life there, and feel like a stranger after living away.  When I'm home I lack motivation and I feel like there is nothing to do.  I am "out of my element?"  Does that make any sense?  Or is it that I have grown past what I know here?  I am also in a debate over work, what to do in February, i.e., go to Spain, go to Asheville for a few weeks, stay in NH... etc.  I am definitely in the post college, mid-twenties purgatory of life!  It really isn't a bad place to be.  It is filled with travels and adventures that are interesting and comical, but it is also a desolate place.  Not knowing what the future has in store is a scary thing.  Funny thing, I am going to see a movie with my mother tonight called Tiny Furniture.  It is about a girl who comes home after graduating college and is going through the same thing!  True story.  Not the movie just the coincidence. 

The time I have spent home has been fun.  I saw my friend Toby for his birthday and met his new (only new to me) girlfriend.  I went to Long Island for my friend Andrews 25th birthday, spent a few days with Dave and ended up in the Hampton's for New Years.  It defiantly ranks among my best New Years'.  I also went Ice Climbing with my friend Brad.  Yes, I am addicted to it again.  And yes, I need new crampons, the Rambo 4's have seen there day and are no longer safe to climb with.   

With all that said, life is a great adventure that I am honored to be apart of.  Yes, it has its down but it is predominately great.  Oh, don't ever watch a movie called The Fourth Kind.  I watched it last night with Scott and it is one fucked up movie!               

Interesting Tan line!

So, it has just occurred to me.  That, at some point in the future when I shave my beard, I am going to have a reverse goggle tan.  It is sunny on the west coast.  I have a thick beard.  I am getting tan.  The sun light doesn't penetrate my beard.  Therefore, I am going to have a fascinating tan line after I shave. 

The time spent in Bishop went too fast.  Was I having that much fun?  Must have been.  It seemed like Chad and I were only there for a week.  In fact, we had been there for three weeks.  Most notable sends in Bishop:  Flash of Solarium V4, Flash of Mister Witty V6, The Hulk V6, High Plains Drifter V7, and Soul Slinger Right V8.   

It can be said, that we left NH, a state that borders the Atlantic Ocean, and drove all the way to the Pacific Ocean.  Chad and I gave his girlfriend Jenny a ride to Ventura, California.  She is visiting a family that she used to nanny for.  They are a nice couple.  The mother Dianne just began a job working for Patagonia and Sacha is an independent graphic designer.  Their son Amato, is an over energetic smart 3 1/2 year old.  I wanted to steel their dog Emma!  She was the sweetest dog (next to Josh Cooper's dog Layla (Shes my girl)). 



Amato and Emma enjoying my sleeping corridors

Diane and Sacha were great hosts.  They kept apologizing for the lack of furniture.  They had just moved  from Boulder, CO.  It was quite alright and it was nice to sleep indoors for once!  Their house was the first place I had slept indoors for weeks.  We spent some time checking out Ventura.  It is a beach community for sure.  Tattoo parlors, board shops and blonds!  We walked the beach and had some tacos!  If you are ever in Ventura and you want cheap Patagonia clothing, go to Really Cheap Sports.  They sell Patagonia gear cheap!  It's still expensive but not as much. 

Vegas is Vegas.  The climbing is really fun. But, to have fun in Vegas you need to have money to spend.  It is still fun to walk around and see the sights and sounds.  The other night, while walking around, I met a real hooker.  She began to yell and Tim and I from across the street.  She came over to me and introduced herself.  I can't remember her name.  She put out two fingers and asked me my name.  Upon telling her, she motioned for me to shake her hand.  With her two fingers in my hand she did a curtsy and said, "pleasure to meet you Emile.  Where are we going to do this thing?"  At that point I informed her that I was looking for a place to eat and that was all.  She instantly started to tell me all of her favorite places to eat.  She was nice, but a real life hooker. 

We've sport climbed the past few days and went bouldering today.  The bouldering is really fun, but I wouldn't commit an entire trip here to it.  We plan on doing a day in the canyons, climbing the bigger stuff.  We won't be able to do anything super classic and long because of the temperatures.  It is warm at the crags, but cold up in the canyons. 

There is a strong chance that Chad and I will stop in Horseshoe Canyon Ranch. It is in Arkansa.  We have herd a lot of good things about it, and it is on our way back.  We plan on driving I-40.  If we take that route. I will have driven I-80, I-90, I-70, and I-40 across the country. 

I find this trip to be surreal.  In the fact that, I haven't worked in almost two months and I was able to pack up and leave my life behind.  Or is this my life?  It is a hard thing to determine.  I would like to be able to do this again next year.  At the same time, the thought of working in a restaurant in NH or anywhere for that matter is depressing.  However, that is the only industry that affords me the luxury of travel.  I hope, one day to be able to determine what I want to do.  I hope I am not destined to be perpetually perplexed. 

At the present moment, I don't see myself doing anything different.  All I know is this:  I have an epic beard, I am enjoying a Mammoth Brewing Company's Epic IPA, I am about to make some dinner, and I would like to travel some more this winter.  Maybe I will go to Spain or France, or maybe visit my friends in Asheville.  At this point, there is nothing stopping me from anything. I like that feeling.  I wish I could find a "real" job that would afford me this.




The view from Dianne and Sacha's place in Ventura.  You can't see it, but the ocean is down there.




 

Morning Coffee!

Chad and I are in fabulous Las Vegas, Nevada!  Call me corny, but I love this town.  I am not a gambler, nor am I usually attracted to flashy things.  However, I get a kick out of Vegas!  Our friend Tim Greene flew in from Boston and rented a gorgeous house for the week!  Once again, he is letting us stay with him for next to nothing!  It is crazy! 

Good friends are both rare and cherished.  It is a great feeling.  I value the people in my life.  Granted Tim has the means to rent a house like this, but it is extremely nice of him to let Chad and I stay.   

I will post more later.  We are excited to go climbing and everyone is giving me the hairy eyeball!